Celebrity chef José Andrés has waded into the heated debate over Washington, D.C.'s proposed ban on foie gras, aligning with local restaurateurs who argue the delicacy is no more ethically problematic than other meat dishes.
Andrés, founder of World Central Kitchen and owner of restaurants worldwide, took to X to respond to a supporter of Initiative 86, which would prohibit the sale and service of foie gras in the District. The French specialty, made from duck liver enlarged through force-feeding, has long drawn criticism from animal rights activists who call the practice cruel.
In his post, Andrés appeared to dismiss the ethical distinction, writing: "Let's ban beef and pork and chicken … and also vegetables too because is a study that says that maybe indications of suffering. We have children hungry in USA and the World … lets end hunger and then we talk."
The chef's comments underscore a growing rift between animal welfare advocates and the city's dining industry, which views the ban as an overreach that threatens culinary traditions and business autonomy. Andrés, known for his humanitarian work, has not yet detailed how he plans to fight the measure, but his public stance adds a high-profile voice to the opposition.
At least one D.C. restaurateur is already vowing to defy the ban if it passes. Bart Hutchins, owner of Butterworth's, penned an op-ed in The Washington Post defending foie gras production, arguing that the force-feeding process mimics natural overeating behavior in ducks before migration. "Ducks are not humans," Hutchins wrote. "This overfeeding is something the bird does naturally … What foie gras farming does is amplify a natural biological process rather than invent a cruel one."
Hutchins has also announced a "Foie Gras at the End of the World" event at his restaurant, featuring a four-course tasting menu available daily from Oct. 27 through Election Day. He told Axios D.C. that even if the initiative passes, he would continue serving foie gras and would consider relocating to Virginia rather than comply.
The ballot measure, which would take effect in 2025 if approved, has become a flashpoint in the city's ongoing debates over food ethics and local governance. Opponents, including Hutchins and now Andrés, argue that the ban is inconsistent with the treatment of other animals in the food system and distracts from larger issues like hunger.
Supporters of the ban, however, contend that force-feeding ducks causes unnecessary suffering and that the practice has no place in a humane society. The initiative is one of several animal welfare measures appearing on D.C.'s ballot this year, reflecting a broader national conversation about industrial farming and animal rights.
As the election approaches, the foie gras fight has drawn attention from political figures and unlikely alliances, but for D.C.'s restaurant community, it's a matter of survival. Hutchins' defiance suggests that even a voter-approved ban may not end the controversy.
